someone named Elma
Sunday, July 1, 2007 at 02:32AM My day on Hydra was exactly what I needed.
I left that island feeling like the most perfect version of me; I have never felt so calm, collected, or sure of myself.
Early Friday morning, I went down to Piraeus with the rest of the group-who were going to Poros-to help them find their boat, since they had never used that port before. I left them at their ferry, and found my Flying Dolphin-Satan's answer to a fast boat. I hate those little boats-it is like being on an airplane, but worse.
When the boat stopped to let people off at Poros, it brought back all the wonderful memories of the day my roommates and I spent there last year. That day was one of the best I've ever had, and I couldn't bear the idea of revisiting Poros and tarnishing those memories.
Hydra is simply stunning. An old island, save for the new touristy shops, it appears much as it did 50 years ago, due to the lack of motor transportation. Disembarking in the port of Hydra is like walking into the past, and I love it. We spent a very short 8 hour day on Hydra last year, visiting the port for only an hour or so before heading out on a water taxi to one of the smaller beaches. So this year, I was absolutely delighted to have the opportunity to explore the winding alleyways and cobbled streets on my own.
I wandered around a bit until my hotel room was ready; sitting on the steps of a small church to write in my journal and then finding a cafe by the port to get a cup of tea. I normally hate traveling alone, but there was something so incredibly liberating about being able to go and do as I pleased. My room was sparesly furnished, but comfortable, and afforded a balcony view of the town. I collapsed into the huge double bed, relishing the feeling of the crisp white hotel sheets. After a much needed nap, I got up and wandered around town for awhile. Right in the middle of mesimerianos, the Greek siesta, much of the town had closed down for the day, but I found a place selling milkshakes and treated myself. I also found a little jewelry store, Hydra Gold, where I finally found an enamel ring that I liked.
My balcony was the perfect spot for writing, and I spent about an hour catching up on my journaling and enjoying the view. Henry Miller's passage on Hydra kept me company for awhile, and I marveled over the fact that he would probably find the island little changed, except for the plethora of tourist shops ringing the port. An overwhelming sense of quiet pervaded the atmosphere, even though I was situated right in the heart of town, the dominant sound was that of the wind rushing through the trees. A few murmered voices filtered through occasionaly, but with my eyes closed, I could have sworn I was on a deserted island.
The heat was oppresive, so I went back to bed and reemmerged around 6:30 in time to take a long hike/walk around town before dinner. I headed out down the tiny alley where Pension Glaros was located, and took off up the stairs.
I didn't stop until I had reached the top, a dead end that led to the steps of a huge house, and overlooked the entire harbor town. It was beautiful, and I was thoroughly exhausted. The two dogs that had been following me accompanied my walk back down to the hotel, where they promptly disappeared. After a nice lukewarm shower-actually refreshing after a long hot walk-I dressed for dinner and went down to the port.
Dining out alone is a curious experience; the waiter didn't quite know what to make of my solitary self, sitting at the waterside table with my copy of Jane Eyre. A little cat emerged to keep me company, and even though it refused my offers of pizza crust, it stood by my side begging for the course of my meal.
The sun set as I was eating, and I managed to get a few good photographs and a lovely walk to one end of the harbor in before it got dark. A phone call home got me nice and sad, so I returned to my room, where Arnold Swarzenegger and Kindergarten Cop kept me company until I fell asleep.
6am came early on Saturday, but I awoke to the smell of fresh baked goods wafting up from the bakery next door. Hot croissant in hand, I walked down to the fortress area at the end of the port to watch the sun rise over the harbor before my flying dolphin was scheduled to arrive.
I decided, while sitting on my balcony, that I need to come back and do Greece on my own. Do it right. And I'm taking offers for traveling partners. I'm thinking next May, right after school gets out, before the tourists invade and everything gets expensive. I won't make it to Rhodes this year, so that is first on my list of things to do.
Photos coming soon.
~RLM
rachellake |
2 Comments |
islands 


Reader Comments (2)
Oh Rachel it sounds sooooo relaxing! Levi would walk my legs off there I am sure! So can you explain about mesimerianos?
If you write a book I am going to be among the first to buy it! :)
Have a relaxing Sunday!
M
Yes! We are going to Greece in May! That has been my plan for a good while and I don't want to go with my parents and I don't want to go with anyone else. I'm am completely serious. When you get back, we are planning this trip!
Also...Ben Jelen has an EP out. Its called Rejected. It has 5 songs on it. iTunes has it, if you're interested.