recommendations

Yesterday I typed up a list for the Odyssey students of the essential things I thought they should see before leaving Athens. I have, in addition, my own personal list of things I want to see this summer, which I will add to this later.

1. The Acropolis
    Entrance on Dionysou Areopagitou
    Open 8am-7pm daily
    Structures at the Acropolis:
        Beule Gate
        Propylaia
        Temple of Athena Nike
        Erechtheion & Porch of the Caryatids
        Parthenon
        Theatre of Dionysos
        Odeon of Herodes Atticus
        Acropolis Museum
    The ticket can be purchased with a student discount, at 6E, and the ticket includes passes to the Agora, Temple of Olympian Zeus, & Theatre of Dionysos
2. Temple of Olympian Zeus
    Located at the corner of Amalias and Vasilissis Olgas
    Open 8:30am – 7pm daily
3. The Ancient Agora & Roman Agora
    The heart of ancient Athens
    Entrance on Adrianou
    Open 8am-7:30pm daily
4.  Kerameikos
    Ancient Cemetery, location of the Sacred Way and Panathenaic Way
    Ermou 148, Thiseio
    Open 8am-7pm daily
5.  Museums:
    A. National Archeological Museum
        44 Patission St, Exarcheia (metro to Omonia)
        Open 8am-7pm daily in the summer
    B. Benaki Museum
        Corner of Eleftheriou Venizelou (Vas. Sofias) and Koumpari
        9am-5pm Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday; 9am-midnight Thursday; 9am-3pm Sunday
        Free on Thursdays
    C. Cycladic Museum
        Eleftheriou Venizelou (Vas. Sofias) to Neof’you Douka 4
        Open 10am-4pm Monday, Wednesday-Friday, 10am-3pm Saturday, closed Tuesday and Sunday
6. Changing of the Guard
    In front of the Parliament Building in Syntagma Square, at the Tomb of the Unknowns
    The guards change every hour, on the hour
    Full performance on Sundays at 11am, arrive early to get a good spot
7.  New Olympic Complex at Irini
8.  Lykavitos Hill
    One of the best places to watch a sunset in Athens; it is actually the highest point in the city
    The climb to the top takes about an hour
9.  The Athens Central Market
    bordered by Athinas, Evripidou, Eolou and Sofokleous Streets
10. The Flea Market at Monastiraki
    8am – 2pm on Sundays
11. Performance at the Herodeon
    Check the schedule online at http://www.greekfestival.gr/
    Going to a performance is the only way to get inside the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, located at the base of the Acropolis
12. One or more of the Argo-Saronic Islands (i.e. Aegina, Angistri, Poros, Hydra)
    Ferries leave from Piraeus early in the morning, if you get there early enough to catch a slow boat the price is about 5E
    You can stay on the island all day, go to the beach, see some of the town, and be back to Athens in time for dinner

 ~RLM

Update on Thursday, June 21, 2007 at 09:29AM by rachellake

My list of things to do while I'm here:

1. Go back to the Acropolis, actually spend some time walking around, taking serious photographs.

2. Actually make it to the Agora and Kerameikos this year.

3. Plan a day trip out to Ancient Brauron.

4. Spend a weekend on Rhodes...this is on the schedule for next week.  I really want to go see the Old Town and visit all the ruins.  And go to the beach.

5.  Visit the Western Coast.  So far, we're planning on taking a long trip during the 4th of July week, to visit Lefkada, Ithaca, and Kefalonia.

6. Climb Filopapou around sunset to get some good Acropolis photos.

7. Finish reading The Colossus of Maroussi and Facing Athens.

8. Keep a more detailed journal, and make more of an effort to take non-touristy photos on a regular basis. 

9. Placido Domingo is performing on Wednesday at the Marble Stadium, and I want to go.

10. See some sort of musical performance at the Herodeon.

11. Take more late night walks around the Acropolis. 

off to the land of Agamemnon

 
Me, reading on the walls at Delphi last year, overlooking the Temple of Apollo

We're going to the Peleponnese for the weekend!

This will be my third excursion to the ancient sites of Greece, and to be honest, it's getting a little old.  Pun intended.  Nevertheless, we'll be visiting Delphi, Olympia, Epidavros, & Mycenae with stops in Tolo, Arachova, Livadia, and Nafplio. 

We'll be back on Sunday night, post and pics to follow.

~RLM

P.S. There's an awkward situation in the works, and I'm trying to be really grown up about it and deal with it like a normal human being, but I'm not so sure I'm capable of that yet.  Why does life have to be so complicated sometimes? 

it's getting hot out there

 

It is 115 degrees outside.  It hit 100 around 9:30 this morning, right about the time we were stepping off the bus to begin our last day of torture in the Peleponnese.

As much as I love seeing historical sites, these have gotten pretty boring by the third time around.  And it didn't help that our tour guide this year did not speak English very well and was incredibly hard to understand.  I spent most of the three day weekend repeating all the information she gave out because no one listened to her.  I'm in such a bad mood right now, it's pathetic.

This weekend did have its excellent moments though; while the heat was insufferable, we did manage to have a lot of fun.  I finally made it down to the Temple of Athena Pronaia at Delphi on Friday; I've wanted to see that thing for the past two years, so this time Matt and I left the group and went by ourselves.  It was awesome, and well worth the hike down the mountainside.  Friday night we stayed in Olympia, at one of my favorite hotels, and started the evening off right with a group swim in the amazingly beautiful pool.  Then, after dinner, Josh, Leah, Rachel T and I spread out a blanket in the field behind our hotel rooms to watch the stars and hang out.  It is so quiet and peaceful out there, away from the city, it was a much needed respite from the craziness of the group. 

On Saturday morning we toured the archeological site at Ancient Olympia and then indulged in a long, lingering lunch in town.  Our afternoon stop in Lagadia was a big hit with everyone, I stocked up on walnuts, almonds, and honey-items the town is famous for producing-and then enjoyed a chocolate milkshake (my hot weather cafe drink of choice) at the adorable little cafe.  Lagadia is carved into the mountains of the Peleponnese, a tiny little village that seems to be part of a different world.  Time seems to pass more slowly up there in the mountains, at a more leisurely and enjoyable pace. 

Saturday night, our stay in Tolo began with a swim in the ocean, and then dinner out on the patio.  There were fireworks after dark, and then we spent the rest of the night hanging out by the pool.  Josh is my new best friend; we both have the same cynical sense of humor and it's just fun to talk to him.

Today was awful.  I can only think of a few other moments when I have felt that disgusting in my life, and one of them was when I spent 9 hours outside at Warped last summer in 95 degree heat.  We started the day at Epidavros, took a snack break in Nafplio, and then headed over to Mycenae.  Combine 115 degree temperatures with a hike up the ruins of Agamemnon's palace - devoid of shade - and you get a really unhappy group of college students.  Then, put them back on a bus with a barely functioning AC unit and complete lack of space, and you get hell on wheels.

The planning of weekend excursions is turning into mass chaos and getting on my nerves.

I hate that this post sounds negative, because for the most part this weekend was really awesome.  But in the retelling, the fun, you-had-to-be-there moments got lost.

I need to do laundry.

~RLM 

sane normal people

I am feeling very frustrated.

Imagine that.

Tonight we finally had our meeting to discuss everyone's plans for the next three weeks, and it was mass chaos.

I'm not going to Rhodes this weekend.

I'm really angry about that.

I feel the constant need to escape from this group, this apartment has become like a prison.

I want to actually come to this country and enjoy it.  It is so frustrating that all of my excitement, despite my constant attempts at staying positive, is being drawn down by the drama of these people and events.

Just needed to vent.

~RLM

Update on Monday, June 25, 2007 at 06:50PM by rachellake

So, about 10 minutes after posting my little rant, I felt incredibly stupid for complaining.

I mean, most people would kill to be in Greece.

So, I'm going to try and lighten the mood and remind myself what makes this worthwhile.

I do love meeting new people and making friends I wouldn't normally have.  I have meshed well with several members of the group, and our fun times make up for the insanity of everyone else.  This weekend, our little group spent some quality time enoying Olympia and Tolo, the two towns we stayed in.  Spreading a blanket under the stars with newly good friends, and then the next night sitting by the pool until the wee hours of the morning, are definitely moments worth savoring.

I've gotten so comfortable in this city.  It doesn't even feel like a foreign country to me anymore.  I love the confidence I have in carrying on my everyday city routine; walking through Plaka, getting groceries, feeling at home here.  More and more I feel like I could live here permanently, and I'm beginning to plan on how to make that happen in the future.

I love the Greek style of life; they appreciate it so much more here.  There is no rush to eat, no hurry to get in and out of stores, cafes, etc.   Mesimerianos is built into the frame of every day; the rush of the city slows down for the afternoon siesta.  People are more calm and relaxed about getting things done, with phrases like "It's Greece!" or "then perizo" (which means don't sweat the small stuff) being uttered right and left.  I also love the fact that I could live my life quite comfortably without a vehicle.  Between walking and the metro, I'm set.  It feels so much more satisfying to reach my destination and also so much more like I'm a part of the city.

Lemon roasted potatoes.  And gyros with french fries at Tony's.  And yoghurt.  And cherries.  And watermelon.  And peach juice...the list goes on.

Walking around the Acropolis late at night.  It may be the most peaceful feeling in the world for me.  There's no real explaining it.

Now I feel better.

Night. 

P.S. I just posted pics on flickr from this weekend. 

hey, let's cross the sea

Earlier this afternoon, I took Leah to lunch in Plaka at Byzantino's.  I was craving their creamy tortellini and in desperate need of some culture.  I hit my breaking point last night, a frame of mind where I just couldn't take any more of the drama.  So today, I decided to start fresh.

We sat, in the breeze of a large fan, languoring in the heat of the afternoon.  Our food arrived slowly, as our conversation progressed.  It felt so decadent and luxurious to be sitting there embracing the moment, being absorbed into the slowly pulsing energy of Plaka.  An excellent loaf of bread, accompanied by ice cold coke and a bottle of water held us over until our steaming plates of feather light tortellini arrived, and a heaping dish of cold yoghurt with honey finished off our decadent meal.  We made friends with the elderly couple sitting next to us and spent the better part of an hour discussing life, Greece, and post traumatic stress disorder.  It was exactly the kind of moment that makes me fall in love with this country all over again.

I left utterly relaxed, completely refreshed and ready to embrace my last three weeks in Athens.  I'll make do with not going to Rhodes this weekend and take advantage of the group's absence.  Friday morning, I'm hopping on the first ferry to Hydra, to spend at least 24 hours in solitude.  I want to get out of here, out of my normal routine, out of my head.  And Hydra is the perfect place for that emotional cleansing.  I'm booking a hotel, willing to splurge a little and indulge myself.  I want to spend the morning on a secluded beach, write the afternoon away in a cafe in town, then wander around the winding streets of the little pedestrianized island until it's time to eat dinner at a nice seaside taverna, and go to bed early in peace, quiet, and air-conditioning.  Sounds like paradise, no?

 We're exploring the Acropolis and Agora on Saturday, hoping to take advantage of the rumored drop in temperature to avoid any more heat stroke.  And then Sunday, I'm going to watch the Changing of the Guard, do a little shopping in Plaka, and then attend the Tribute to Maria Callas at the Herodeion with Leah.  The prospect of peace, introspection, and lots of culture is making up for the fact that Rhodes has been postponed.

~RLM 

7 headed, ravenous, man-eating monster of yore

4:45 am comes very early when you didn't go to bed until 12:45, and then had to yell at people to be quiet at 2am, and then woke up to go to the bathroom at 3:45.

But, I'm leaving for the island in about half an hour, and will spend the next 28 hours trying to relax and destress.

Unfortunately, there is supposed to be some sort of mock battle on Hydra this weekend, which could throw a wrench in my plans for peace and quiet.  Guess I should have done some checking on that.

Anywho...I'll be back tomorrow morning around 10, at which point, all of the CUNY students will have left for the States, and Leah, Rachel T, Amelia, and I will have the apartment to ourselves for over 24 hours!

Pictures and a long detailed post to come when I get back.

~RLM

P.S. C, the package arrived and you are my new favorite person!  I have already eaten half the bag of chocolate covered pretzels, which everyone in the apartment is jealous of. 

P.S.S  I just read this article, about the fires/heat in Greece, and it says 9 people have already died from heatstroke...due to the 115 degree temperatures.  It sure is a good thing we live in a cramped, un-airconditioned apartment on the 3rd floor of an ancient building.