from the moleskine: 5/19/08

We’ve spent the last few days exploring an area of Greece that is completely new to me. I’ve been trying to make it to the Dodekanisos for the past three years, and I’m incredibly glad to have finally seen some of these islands.

Rodos was beautiful, full of history - but big. It didn’t really even feel like an island – or Greece really. Architecturally, the Old Town is full of Venetian and Ottoman influences – whereas the town we stayed in, Kremasti, was clearly a development of the tourist industry on top of what surely used to be a quaint local village. Despite all of this – Old Town Rhodes was stunning, just as I had hoped. The old Venetian fortress now encompasses a bustling market area much like the Plaka in Athens. We didn’t see much of New Town Rhodes, but it also reminded me of modern Athens – the result of quick growth and poor funding – a conglomeration of crumbling storefronts and beautiful historic areas.

Kalymnos was a complete surprise – not at all what I was expecting. The island is naturally beautiful in a way that touches the innermost parts of your soul. The view from our hotel balconies was staggeringly pretty. We stayed in a small village away from the main town – near the climbing areas – and Massouri turned into our personal paradise for those few days. Facing the smaller island Tolendos, and backed by huge cliffs, the area seemed very primitive – nearly untouched by the ravages of the tourist industry, the locals were sincere and friendly, the atmosphere laid back and authentic. Other Greeks have been impressed that we stepped off the beaten path – have given us a stamp of approval for choosing a truly Greek location. Kalymnos will haunt me, I’m sure – the low hills curving off in the distance as we stared off the balcony seemed wise, as if you could learn a world of knowledge by just watching them long enough.

I wish I could adequately do the raw majesty of this place any measure of justice – but there are hardly words. I could have just stayed on that balcony, content to take in the view, the breeze washing peace into my soul.

~RLM