That one time, when I went to Albania…

Today was such a contrast of places, people, and experiences. My first impression of Albania was that it looked like one of those overly touristy towns in Florida. Or the New Jersey of the Ionian Sea. Saranta is not exactly a pretty town, but it is the closest city to Butrint and Corfu lies just off the coast. EasyCruise has only been visiting Albania since April, and the novelty of the cruise tourists has not yet worn off on the city. We were probably the only tourists in the small city today and it was definitely noticeable. The locals seemed rather unsure of what to do with us, as if they couldn’t really figure out why we were even here.

Walking into town from the port this morning, I was kind of regretting that we didn’t still have the guys here – it certainly wasn’t dangerous or scary at all, but it wasn’t a comfortable walk.

To start, we found a restaurant recommended by the cruise director and had one of the most amazing meals I’ve ever eaten - risotto with a fresh herb cream sauce and grilled pork chops – for about 10 euro a person.

We shared a taxi out to Butrint with a couple from our cruise, since none of us was really sure what to do in town – it was a bit too sketchy to just explore on foot. Ancient Butrint turned out to be the most magnificent find of this trip – the ruins were incredibly beautiful and well preserved – and completely deserted. We were the only four people on the site – a massive, several hundred-acre complex of Greek and Roman ruins. It seemed like a step back in time, wandering the forested pathways around the old city. Cyclopean walls developed into Roman fortresses and palaces, and crumbling staircases gave way to breathtaking views of the distant mountains. It was like a fairy tale – a surreal surprise of an afternoon.

Back in town, we found the under-whelming ruins of the old Jewish Synagogue. I’d expected something a little more impressive, but what we discovered was a crumbling mess of low stone walls fenced in off the corner of a busy street; history forgotten in the hurried development of a poor port city.

I would say that Albania seems to be about 7-10 years behind Greece, and that given enough time and economic input, it could turn into a beautiful place to travel. For now, it is still unprepared for the demands of a tourist industry. Our taxi driver was the only person I saw with a cell phone all day, garbage littered the streets and sidewalks, and dozens of unfinished buildings lined every road. However, the beauty of Butrint totally made up for the lack of character in Saranta.

And at least now I can say that I’ve been to Albania.

~RLM

Paxos and Anti-Paxos

Left behind everything I knew
All the colors were bone white and sky blue…
-Antarctica
The Weepies

Much of today has passed in a dreamlike state, from the tiny deserted island I watched the boat pass alone on deck shortly after dawn to the secluded beach on Anti-Paxos a group of us spent the afternoon on.

I called Dylan as the ship passed Atoko this morning – a private, practically deserted island owned by the man who owns EasyCruise – I was alone on the deck, and the moment was truly breathtaking. The new sun glittered off the water and islands in the distance emerged from the early mists. I imagine that any period of life on an island would be thoroughly soul changing – to be that secluded from the rest of the world, that close to one’s self – it would be amazing. After spending the day on Paxos and Anti Paxos, I’m more determined than ever to make my dream of living a month on Hydra a reality.

We finally arrived in Paxos after noon, surprised to find the tiny island to be so full of charm – and utterly lovely. After a very late brunch at a café in town, we found a group of people from our cruise also looking to take a boat out to Anti Paxos, the even smaller island off the coast. The beach was stunning – white sand ringed in white cliffs, with the deep crystalline blue waters so typical of the Ionian Sea. The afternoon was sheer perfection; three hours spent swimming, napping in the sun, and reading on the beach. There is no way to do the island any sort of justice in words, but thankfully, the photos came out well.

Tomorrow we go to Albania – which will be a completely new adventure.

~RLM

leaving Ithaka

On an earlier entry, Melody left a comment of the Jewish traveler’s prayer – it seems so fitting, and was so well appreciated, that I’m copying it out here.

"May it be Your will, Lord, My God and God of my ancestors, to lead me, to direct my steps, and to support me in peace. Lead me in life, tranquil and serene, until I arrive at where I am going. Deliver me from every enemy, ambush and hurt that I might encounter on the way and from all afflictions that visit and trouble the world. Bless the work of my hands. Let me receive divine grace and those loving acts of kindness and mercy in Your eyes and in the eyes of all those I encounter. Listen to the voice of my appeal, for you are a God who responds to prayerful supplication. Praised are you, Lord, who responds to prayer."

Our day on Ithaki ended well – sunset from the boat and then dinner at a taverna by the harbor. I now have to learn how to make Beef Stifado, as mine was delicious – it tasted of cloves and Christmas.

I like this place – it is quiet, peaceful, somewhere I would be content to sit and watch the people go by.

~RLM 

Ithaki

Keep Ithaka always in your mind.

Arriving there is what you are destined for.

Bud do not hurry the journey at all.

Better if it lasts for years,

So you are old by the time you reach the island,

Wealthy with all you have gained on the way,

Not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

--CP Cavafy, “Ithaka”

Ithaki is beautiful, and I am enjoying an afternoon alone.  From visiting Lefkas and Kefalonia last year, I knew that I loved this part of Greece, but Ithaka has enchanted me thoroughly.  It is so different from any of the other islands...calm, peaceful, very much like a different world.  It seems unspoilt, as if despite the tourists pouring in off of cruise ships, it has managed to maintain some sense of authenticity and character.  As it should be.

And EasyCruise is amazing - I will definitely be doing one of them again. Our cabin is nicer than many hotel rooms I have stayed in, and the price is so fantastic.  I just wish the guys had been able to come on this part of the trip as well, it would have been so much fun to have them here.  Sonia has wandered off on her own for the afternoon, so I have found solace in a small cafe with internet access, and am quite content.  I've filled half a Moleskine in the past three weeks, and will be trying to share as much of that writing as is possible once I get home.  I'm almost ready to leave - am tired of feeling uprooted.  I've been missing the friends a lot now that the boys are gone - as usual, I wish that Ashley or Kaitlin could be here to take it all in.

~RLM